From Bean to Bar: Chiang Mai’s Emerging Cacao Culture

Dan Mitchell
Jan 14
3 min read

Inside the quiet renaissance of Thai chocolate and the craft of flavor at Skugga.

Cacao is not new to Thailand, but its story is finally being told properly. Once considered a tropical novelty, Thai cacao is now finding its voice through craftsmanship and terroir—the same way fine coffee and wine once did.

In the highlands near Chiang Mai, small farms and creative makers are building a culture around bean-to-bar chocolate that feels both rooted and revolutionary. It is here, between the forest and the vines, that Skugga’s Chocolate Lab brings this movement to life.

The Northern Revival: From Crop to Craft

Thailand’s cacao renaissance began quietly in the north. Farmers discovered that shaded valleys and rich volcanic soil could yield cacao beans of surprising complexity—notes of spice, fruit, and earth unlike anything from West Africa or South America.

By processing the beans locally rather than exporting them raw, a new generation of Thai makers began creating chocolate that carried the fingerprint of place.

Chiang Mai’s climate—cooler mornings, mist, and long harvest windows—allowed for slow fermentation and delicate roasting. What once seemed like an unlikely origin became a landscape of flavor.

Inside the Skugga Chocolate Lab

The Chocolate Lab at Skugga is less a factory and more a workshop of patience. The air smells of roasted cacao and warm stone. Machines hum softly, not loudly. Every stage is done by hand: cracking, winnowing, grinding, tempering.

Visitors can observe or join short sessions that trace cacao’s journey from bean to bar. It is a process of texture and time—three days of rhythm and rest that mirrors the philosophy of Skugga itself.

The result is small-batch chocolate that tastes alive. Slightly rustic, deeply aromatic, and perfectly imperfect.

Experience more: Chocolate Lab

Ceremonial Cacao: The Return of Ritual

Before it became candy, cacao was ceremony. Ancient cultures drank it slowly, with intention, to awaken focus and gratitude. That ritual is returning—especially among creative travelers seeking clarity rather than indulgence.

At Skugga, Ceremonial Cacao is offered as part of the weekend rhythm. Prepared with warm water, local honey, and a touch of spice, it is served not as dessert but as dialogue—a conversation between plant and person.

Guests gather in silence, sip, and listen to the land around them. The experience is simple but deeply grounding.

Learn more: Ceremonial Cacao

Beyond the Vineyard: A Regional Cacao Trail

Chiang Mai’s cacao movement extends far beyond Skugga. In nearby Chiang Dao and Lampang, smallholder farms are cultivating native hybrids that are changing the profile of Thai chocolate.

Local roasters now collaborate directly with these growers, shortening the supply chain and ensuring traceability from soil to bar. The result is a Northern Cacao Trail—a slow-travel journey connecting chocolate, coffee, and community through shared craftsmanship.

For visitors, this offers an entirely new form of tasting tourism: part culinary discovery, part cultural revival.

Why Cacao Belongs in the Skugga Story

Cacao fits naturally into Skugga’s ecosystem of craft. Like wine, tea, and coffee, it is a language of patience. It demands time, temperature, and touch. Each product—cup, bar, or blend—is an act of attention.

What unites them all is the philosophy that luxury lies in process, not in speed. Whether a vineyard dinner or a chocolate workshop, everything at Skugga invites the same reflection: the best experiences are those that unfold slowly.